Fisherman’s rope’ quote

This is how Stromness was described by one of Orkney’s most illustrious sons, the writer George Mackay Brown. George was born here and spent most of his life in the town, writing poems, novels, plays and newspaper columns about life in the islands. To read ‘Under Brinkie’s Brae’ or ‘Letters from Hamnavoe’ is to see Stromness through the years, from sweetie shops to sledging to tourists and troublesome toasters (George had a constant battle with his…).

The town is nestled in the shelter of Hamnavoe, the ‘haven bay’ so named by the early Viking raiders. The first recorded inhabitants owned an inn in the 16^th century, but it was not until the 18^th century that Stromness began to develop into the form we see now. The town grew alongside the Hudson’s Bay Company; indeed many of the Company’s staff came from Orkney and they had several offices in the town.

The narrow main street of the town winds between solid stone buildings, traditionally built ‘gable end to the sea’, to protect against the weather. Many of the houses were shops serving the Hudson’s Bay Company – they would open any time of the day or night if a company ship came in. For many HBC staff, Stromness was often the first or last place they saw on their journeys to and from the ‘Nor’Waast’. At Login’s Well they often stopped to take on fresh water – it can still be seen to this day.

Stromness has a strong fishing tradition too – it benefited from the herring boom of the late 19^th century and it was said that the boats were so tightly packed together that you could walk from one end of the harbour to the other without getting your feet wet! There is evidence throughout the town of a busy fishing and whaling past, and on a fine day the Pierhead is still the meeting place for the old Stromness fishermen. Behind the main buildings you can often glimpse the whaling sheds, once used for storing equipment and processing the catch. Some have been converted into stores and even houses, but a few still have their original interiors.

An imposing stone house features a blue plaque marking it as the home of Eliza Fraser, the wife of an Orkney sea captain in the 19^th century. She accompanied him on his last voyage, witnessed his murder, and found herself living with Australian Aboriginal tribespeople. Her amazing story is available to read at the wonderful Stromne Museum, a traditional gem of a place filled with treasures from top to bottom.

This is a town full of piers and poetry and seagulls and stories.

Come and experience it with a Dragon History walking tour!